Celeste mesh crop top Free Crochet Pattern

The Celeste Mesh Crop Top is a breezy, beautiful crochet shirt perfect for summer nights! This design uses simple stitches and a large hook for a light, airy mesh look. Made to measure in flat panels, the Celeste Top requires no complex construction, making it perfect for beginners. The top can be customised to be longer or shorter. You will need a measuring tape or the measurements of the recipient to complete the pattern.

Before starting, we strongly encourage you to make a gauge swatch. This will ensure that your garment is the right measurement and fits. You can’t use a chain to measure accurately, as the chain will shorten when you work stitches into it.

For the swatch: Chain 22, skip the first 2 chains and double crochet in each chain to the end (20 dc). Crochet 12 rows of double crochet. Measure the stitches in the centre of the swatch to determine how many stitches and rows are 10 cm.

Our gauge for the pattern is 10 stitches x 7 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm

Now we will do a bit of math:

Our measurement from wrist to wrist is 135cm. The formula is –  wrist to wrist measurement divided by gauge stitches (in 10cm) then multiply by 10. For example, if 12 stitches are 10 cm and your wrist-to-wrist measurement is 135: 135 / 12 = 11.25 x 10 = 112.5. Round the number up to the next even number (114). So, the example would start with 114 stitches to get the length of the piece.

• DK weight acrylic yarn (Lion Brand Mandala Ombre´)
  – Pure 370g (approx. 780 metres for the example)
• 8mm crochet hook (or size to suit your yarn)
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• Ruler & Measuring Tape
• Stitch Markers (2)

• fhdc – foundation half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sc – single crochet
• st – stitch
• fasten off – cut the yarn and pull through
• (#) – total number of blocks at the end of the row
• * * – repeat the instructions inside the asterisks
• [  ] – repeat the instructions in the brackets in the same stitch
• pm – place stitch marker

The Celeste Mesh Crop Top is made to measure. We have used a DK weight yarn with a 8mm hook to get a mesh look from double crochets. If you use a different yarn, keep in mind that you want the hook size to be bigger than what is called for on the yarn label.

The top is worked in two flat panels. The first part of the panel is the sleeves, and then the yarn is attached to create the length of the top. The pieces are then slip stitched together at the shoulders and up the sides. The trim is worked in the round. The design has ¾ length sleeves. If you want full sleeves, add 15 – 20 cm to your measurement in Step 1.

1. Start by measuring from wrist to wrist of the person who will be wearing the top. Our example measures 135cm across (see Gauge section above). Add 15 – 20 cm for full length sleeves.

2. Measure from the top of the shoulder to the point where you want the top to sit in the armpit area. Be sure to leave enough room for easy movement. These two measurements will be the length and width of the sleeves. Our example is approx. 22cm.

3. Either measure or hold the panel up to determine the width of the torso section, leaving enough space for comfortable movement on each side. Our example is approx. 40 stitches from each side / 56 stitches across the middle.

4. Re-attach the yarn to create the torso section. Continue to crochet rows of double crochet until the top is as long as you’d like. Our example is approx. 17cm in length.

5. Repeat all the steps above to create the second panel. The two panels are then slip stitched together at the shoulders and up the sides. Finally, the trim is added to the bottom.

Repeat instructions between the * *

Chain 2 does NOT count as a stitch; TURN at the end of each row

The top is worked in double crochet stitches with a large hook

We will include the stitch numbers and rows from our example, but be sure to work with the numbers from your individual measurements completed above

Begin with the number of stitches to achieve the measurement from wrist to wrist

Take note of the number of stitches and rows you have completed in each section so that you can duplicate for the 2nd panel

Row 1: fhdc 136 (or the number from your gauge calculations rounded up to the next even number) OR loosely ch 137, starting in 2nd ch, hdc in each ch to the end (136)

Row 2 – 16: Ch 2, dc in each st, Complete as many rows as you need to achieve the height measurement in Step 2 (136)

Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in

Count in from both sides for the number of stitches in Step 3 – place a stitch marker in each side

For the example, we have counted 40 stitches from each side and placed our markers

Turn your work (like you normally would so you’re continuing the same right / wrong rows) and attach your yarn to the left of the marker on the right – if you’re left-handed, attach to the right of the marker on the left

Row 17 – 28: Ch 2, dc in each st, Complete as many rows as you need to achieve the length required – you can make it a crop or a full-length top (56)

Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in

Repeat all the steps above for the 2nd panel

Shoulders:

With right sides of each panel together (wrong sides facing out), count in an even number of stitches from each side for the neck opening

Place a marker in each side and try the garment on (if possible) to check neck opening

We have left 32 stitches open for the neck – counting 52 from each side and pinning the pieces together with stitch markers

Slip stitch the shoulders closed from the edge of the sleeve to the neck hole (or you can sew with a mattress stitch if you prefer)

Sides: 

Line up the pieces and slip stitch up each side and across the bottom of the sleeve (or you can sew with a mattress stitch if you prefer)

(2 slip stitches in the side of each double crochet, 1 slip stitch in the corner, 1 slip stitch in each stitch under the sleeve)

Turn whole garment right side out before adding trim

Bottom Trim:

Attach yarn to a st next to one of the bottom seams,

Ch 1, hdc in each stitch around, sl st to the 1st hdc (112)

(If you want to make the bottom trim longer, repeat this round)

Fasten off and weave in all ends on the wrong side of the garment

You could personalise further by adding cuffs to the sleeves or bottom of the garment

The paid PDF version of this pattern includes step-by-step pictures, a diagram with measurements, and the stitch abbreviations written out for beginners to pattern reading and neurodivergent crafters.