How to Crochet Your Own Mushroom Cardigan

This article will give you a basic overview of how I (Monica Fox) created a custom crochet cardigan featuring our Mushroom Granny Square pattern. My sister (the other half of Fox Creations) has no interest in garment making whatsoever, so I’m going solo.

This IS NOT a pattern. It’s a tutorial on how you can freehand a cardigan like mine or make something completely different. 

A list of abbreviations is at the bottom of the page. 

Now it’s time to choose your granny square design (if you’re using one). 

I create this Mushroom Granny square specifically for the cardigan. 

Make a square with your chosen yarn and hook size. You may need to experiment to get the right drape (you don’t want the square to be too stiff as it won’t fit well for a garment). 

With KnitPicks Brava 500 Worsted and a 5.5mm hook, our finished square was approximately 14cm (unblocked). To reach 70cm length for the back piece, I needed 5 squares plus 2 for the pockets (7). 

Keep in mind that you will also be added a bottom trim, so take that extra length into account.

Technically, you should block your square to get the most accurate measurements, but I’m not worried if it’s a bit bigger. 

Crochet your required number of squares and connect them together. I used a single crochet in Red.

Now that you have your squares, it’s time to start the back panel for your cardigan. Choose the stitch you want to use. 

I decided to work side-to-side across the length of the squares. Note: the beginning chain / stitch for each row has been substituted with a Stacked Single Crochet to keep the edges neat. 

Attaching the Red yarn at the bottom right corner (the opposite side if you’re left-handed), single crochet across the length of the squares. I ended up with 95 stitches (this will be the number of stitches for each subsequent row). 

Then I crochetd 5 rows of double crochet before changing to White. 

Row 7: [2 dc in the 1st stitch], *skip 2, 3 dc in next stitch*, Repeat to the last 2 stitches, [2 dc in the next to last stitch], dc in the last stitch

Row 8: sc in the front loop of each stitch 

I then repeated 4 rows of double crochet in Red and the 2 white rows until Row 21 where I shaped for the sleeves.

Row 22: Cut and re-attach to allow for the drop shoulder opening (half of your A measurement) – I counted 40 stitches and continued on with the remaining. Continue on with the last 3 red rows in double crochet.

Reverse the steps above for the other side of the back panel. 

I have completed the front panels to match the back. 

Use your measurements and take into account the width of the neckline / ribbing. I put a stitch marker at the top of the back panel to allow for the neck and then re-created the section that has been marked. 

I started the front panels with foundation double crochet 95 in Red and one more row of dc. 

Continue copying what you’ve done for the back panels including the shaping for your sleeves. 

When finished, seam the shoulders by matching up the front panels with the back panels (right sides together and wrong side facing out). I sewed the pieces together with a mattress stitch and the Red yarn. 

Determine how you want to shape the sleeves. I decided on a tapered cuff design.

I refered to another one of Dora’s articles on Sleeve Shaping.

I crocheted the sleeves directly onto the body of the cardigan between the indents created in the front and back panels (76 double crochets).

Figure out the number of rows you’ll need to decrease down to the wrist circumfirence measurement.

I ended up with 30 stitches at the end of the sleeves (for the wrist) and a total of 39 rows. I decreased in the Red rows starting at Row 6 (decrease 1 in the 1st row, 2 in the 2nd row, 2 in the 3rd row, and 1 in the 4th row = total of 6 decreased stitches each Red stripe). For the final 4 rows of Red, I decreased 4 in each row (16 total).

Once finished, slip stitch the sides of the cardigan together (with right sides together) and then sew up the under side of the sleeves with the mattress stitch.

You should have something that looks like a cardigan at this point. Now, to the fun part (for me, at least) – we crochet the trim!

There are so many options for the neckline of your cardigan. You could go with something classic like a ribbing in your main or contrasting colour or granny stripes or chevrons. You can be as creative as you want!

I wanted to incorporate the other colours from the granny square, so this is my trim:

Row 1: sc around in Red (sc decrease in the seam for each shoulder to round out the trim), fasten off

Row 2: (attach on right side again) sc BLO in Green, Turn

Row 3: hdc FLO in Green, Turn

Row 4: sc BLO in Grey, Turn 

Row 5: hdc FLO in Grey, Turn (no decrease this row)

I switched to a 5mm hook for the remaining trim and ribbing on bottom and cuffs.

Row 6 – 11) Repeat the white two rows from the back and front panels 

I ended with two rows in Red: 1) single crochet, 2) slip stitch (loosely) FLO 

You can now sew the Mushroom Squares to the front for your pockets. I uploaded a video on how to invisible sew on my Tik Tok (fox.creations.oz). I strongly suggest using stitch markers to mark out placement and sewing pins to help hold everything in place. This is the part that gave me the most anxiety as it’s easy to sew the pockets wonky. 

Continue with a 5mm hook for the ribbing on the bottom and cuffs.

To keep the focus on the carigan on the mushrooms and white stripes, I decided to go with something subtle for the bottom trim and cuffs – ribbing in Red. If you want the ribbing to pop, use your contrasting colour. 

For the bottom, you’ll need to single crochet into the edges of the stitches from the front and back panel. I ended up with 6 stitches for each red stripe and 2 stitches per white stripe. You might need to play around to get the trim to sit nicely. I frogged at least 3 times before I was happy. 

Bottom Trim: 

Row 1: sc across (ending on an odd number of stitches or just flub it in 1st ribbing row), Turn 

Row 2: dc in each stitch, Turn

Row 3: *dc, fpdc* repeat to the last stitch and end with a dc, Turn

Row 4: *dc, bpdc* repeat to the last stitch and end with a dc (wrong side), Turn

Row 5: sc in each stitch

The Cuffs for the sleeves are worked in the same way, but in rounds with a slip stitch and NO TURNING:

Rd 1: sc in each stitch (30)

Rd 2: dc in each stitch 

Rd 3 – 4: *dc, fpdc* repeat around 

Rd 5: sc in each stitch – finish with an invisible fasten off 

Good luck, fellow crocheter!

I hope this article inspires you to try your own Mushroom Cardigan or even something completely different. There’s nothing quite like creating a garment that you’ve dreamed up (it’s a fantastic apocalypse skill).