How to Crochet a Circle

Have you ever tried to crochet a circle and it turned into more of a cone… or a wibbly, wobbly something or other?

Mate, you are not alone!

Crocheting a circle is easy once you understand the formula and math behind the technique.

In this article, we’ll walk you through the pattern for a circle in (US terms) single crochet, half double, and double crochet. We’ll also explain the difference between joined rounds and continuous rounds, and why you might want to turn your work.

To crochet a flat circle, you need to evenly increase the number of stitches in each round. Each round will increase by the same number of stitches as you start with in Round 1.

For this example, we’ll start with 6 single crochets (this is how most amigurumi begin).

Repeat the instructions inside the *  *. Increase = two stitches in 1 stitch of the previous round.

Round 1: 6 single crochets in a magic circle (6)

Round 2: Increase in each stitch (12)

Round 3: *single crochet, increase* x6 (18)

Round 4: *2 single crochet, increase* x6 (24)

Round 5: *3 single crochet, increase* x6 (30)

Round 6: *4 single crochet, increase* x6 (36)

Round 7: *5 single crochet, increase* x6 (42)

If you need to make your circle bigger, you just add 1 extra stitch before the increase in each round.

Tip: If your circle is ruffled and wavy, then you have too many increases. If it’s a cone, you don’t have enough increases. Be sure to count your stitches! 

Did you notice the mathematical pattern in… well, the pattern?

First of all, each round increases the same number of stitches that we started with in the first round:

6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, etc

Second, the number of stitches that you’re crocheting in the repeat of each round adds up to the round number. In Round 5, you’ll make 3 stitches and an increase (5 stitches). In Round 7, you’ll make 5 stitches and an increase (7 stitches).

Third, and most obviously, the number of stitches before the increase goes up by 1 each round. In Round 3, you’ll have 1 single crochet before the increase, and then 2 in the following round, 3 in Round 5, etc.

The number of stitches in Round 1 is going to depend on the stitch you’re using.

Remember, we’re trying to get a flat circle.

For Single Crochet, try starting with 6 or 8 stitches.

Taller stitches will need more space to spread out.

Half Double Crochet – 8 or 10 

Double Crochet – 10 or 12

Triple Crochet – 12 or 14

The number you start with is also going to depend on the yarn thickness/weight and your tension.

For bulky yarn, you will need to increase faster to keep the circle flat. Click here to read our article on How to Stop Cone Heads in amigurumi, which explains one method to flatten the circle.

Tip: As the circle gets bigger, you may need to add rounds without increases to keep the circle flat. 

So, now that you have the math down, you need to decide whether you’ll be working in joined or continuous rounds.

Joined Rounds are finished by slip stitching back into the first stitch of the round. Typically, the slip stitch does not count as a stitch in turned rounds. Some people have a bit of trouble differentiating the stitches, so the slip stitch can be confusing. This method also creates a visible seam.

Continuous Rounds are just like they sound – continuous. You will continue working around and around (in a spiral) without joining. To keep track of your rounds, you’ll need to use a stitch marker. Continuous rounds are most often used in amigurumi, but can work well in accessories like beanies because they don’t create a seam. They do, however, end with a little jog down to the previous round.

Tip: If an amigurumi pattern uses joined rounds, it might be to help line up features. If the design is only simple shapes, you are probably safe to switch to continuous rounds. 

If you use Joined Rounds, then you can either work in 1 direction or turn at the end of the round and work in the opposite direction.

If you turn, you will have alternating right-side and wrong-side rounds. This works well if a stitch looks better from the wrong side (like a bobble). 

Turning each round will help keep your seam straight, but it can be confusing to identify the first stitch of the round vs the slip stitch. 

 Tip: Put a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of the round to identify where to slip stitch.  

By following the standard crochet circle pattern, your circle will look more like a hexagon (or octagon or decagon, depending on the number of stitches that you started with). 

This is because the increases for each round stack up on top of each other. 

Once you stop increasing (like when making a beanie), you are unlikely to notice the increases. 

However, if you need a more circular circle, then use the Staggered Increase Method.

Tip: Did you know that there are different crochet terms for US and UK stitches? We have seen this confuse many new crafters! The basic rule to tell one from the other is this: if there is a Single Crochet (sc), then the pattern is written in US terminology. A Single Crochet in UK terms is a Double Crochet. All our patterns (including the one below) are written in US terms.