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Tapestry Crochet – The Good, The Bad, and The Stitches

Have you ever wondered which stitches work best for tapestry? Well, I have!

So, I set out to experiment. With my trusty 3mm hook and some DK cotton (from Bendigo Woollen Mills), I crocheted as many tapestry examples as I could think of. 

In this article, I’ll explain each different option and also how to read a pixel chart. 

How to read a crochet pattern

Heart Pixel Chart

The first step to crochet tapestry is finding a suitable chart.

In simple terms, the more stitches in the chart, the more detailed your finished project. Try to stay away from charts with elements that are only 1 or 2 stitches wide – they will not show up properly in your project.

Charts are easy to read once you get the hang of them. Basically, each little square is a stitch.

If you’re working in rows, then you read Row 1: right to left, Row 2: left to right, Row 3: right to left, etc. If you’re left-handed, you’ll need to start on the left.

If you’re working in rounds, then each round will start on the same side. So, you’ll always read the chart right to left (or left to right if you’re left-handed).

Tip: Overlay Mosaic is a completely different technique and uses a different type of chart. 

    How to read a crochet pattern

    Single Crochet Variations & Tunisian

    Here is my first set of tapestry examples. 

    All of these beauties (except for 1) have been made by using only 1 stitch – the single crochet.

    As you can see, there are different variations – X-Stitch, Waistcoat, etc.

    The other example we’ve included in this bunch is the Tunisian Simple Stitch.

    Keep scrolling to see an up-close picture and breakdown of each stitch below.

    Do you have a favourite from this selection?

    For me, Waistcoat Stitch is the clear winner (even though I genuinely hate crocheting it).

    How to read a crochet pattern stitch abbreviations

    Other Stitches & Techniques

    I’ve often seen people suggesting using taller stitches for crochet tapestries.

    So, here are a couple of examples. I used the Linked Double Crochet and Half Double Crochet.

    The final experiment was to convert the little heart to an Overlay Mosaic chart. I’m planning on releasing this as a free pattern for Valentine’s Day, so be sure to check on Ravelry!

    Honestly, I don’t think there’s any contest here. The Overlay Mosaic example is gorgeous and would make a perfect coaster.

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    Single Crochet (in rows)

    Of course, we have to start with the simplest option – a standard US single crochet worked in rows.

    All of the colour changes have been floated across the back of the project.

    Pros: It’s easy! Most beginners will be able to learn the techniques necessary to make a little tapestry with single crochet.

    Cons: It looks ragged on the edges. This is why it’s important to choose your charts carefully.

    How to read a crochet pattern first stiches

    X-Stitch (in rows)

    If you have the single crochet down, then it isn’t hard to switch to the X-Stitch.

    This stitch is simply done by changing the first yarn over of the stitch to a yarn under. See our tutorial here.

    The X-Stitch is often used in amigurumi. You can see in the picture above that the stitches are a bit tighter than the standard single crochet, so the tapestry is smaller. The edges of the heart are a little crisper.

    Pros: Also easy! 

    Cons: Some people have trouble training their brains to yarn under. Also, it does create a tighter fabric, which it’s no good for garments (but great for wall hangings).

     

    How to read a crochet pattern Step 3

    Tunisian Simple Stitch

    If you want to try something completely different, Tunisian Simple Stitch creates a lovely fabric and a better detailed heart.

    In fact, this is one of my favourite techniques for tapestry.

    Pros: I mean… just look at it! The heart is nice and crisp (even though I did accidentally drop a stitch on the left-hand side). TSS is perfect for garments because of the drape.

    Cons: It’s a completely different technique. I did use my normal Clover crochet hook rather than a Tunisian hook, but the stitches barely fit.

    If you want to learn Tunisian Crochet, I check out TL Yarn Crafts on YouTube.  

    How to read a crochet pattern Step 4

    Single Crochet (in rounds)

    Instead of working back and forth in rows, tapestry can also be crocheted in the round.

    To simulate the look of the stitches, I have fastened off at the end of each row and reattached the yarn on the right-hand side. So, you’re always working with the right side of the fabric facing.

    Pros: The edges are neater than the single crochet in rows technique.

    Cons: You either need to have a project that’s worked in the round or cut your yarn each row. This creates lots of ends to weave in!

    Round 4

    Single Crochet Back Loop Only (in rounds)

    This technique is the same as the one above, but it’s only worked in the back loop of each stitch.

    Pros: The stitches are looser, so this is a great option for beanies or wearables. Working in the BLO also helps to get the rounds lined up.

    Cons: This technique is crocheted in the round. It’s a bit loose for a wall hanging, plus the lines from the leftover front loops may be distracting.

    How to read a crochet pattern Step 7

    Waistcoat Stitch (in rounds)

    The Waistcoat Stitch is made by crocheting single crochets between the posts of the stitch below. This is why it’s also called the Split Single Crochet – because you’re splitting the stitch. 

    I’ll be honest. This is one of my most hated crochet stitches. It’s slow, it hurts my hands, and you need to keep a loose tension for it to work properly. I am a tight crocheter, so it’s a PITA for me.

    Pros: It’s beautiful. You can’t deny that the Waistcoat Stitch is doing a lot of heavy lifting here! The stitches resemble knitting, and they sit so perfectly on top of each other.

    Cons: It’s hard to get this stitch right. As I said above, you need to adjust your tension to be looser (or use a larger hook). It’s also slow because you have to make sure you’re splitting the stitch properly, or you won’t get the V shape. This stitch is also notorious for tightening up as you work, so it can be annoying for anything where you need to meet a specific gauge.

    Round 10

    Double the Stitches (in rows)

    If you’re active in the crochet community online, you may have seen someone suggest that you ‘double the stitches’ of the chart to get a better outcome.

    For example, you crochet 2x single crochets for each pixel (little box) in the chart above.

    Well, this is what happens when you follow directions.

    After I finished this example, I realised that you also need to double the rows in order to keep the same proportions, so guess what our next example is…

    (This is why you shouldn’t try to crochet and watch the awfully written new Running Man movie at the same time.) 

    Round 11

    Double the Stitches & Rows (in rows)

    Okay, so here’s my 2nd attempt.

    In this example, I have crocheted 2x single crochets for each pixel in the chart.

    I have also crocheted each row twice.

    As you can see, you get a much better defined heart than our tiny chart above.

    Why? Because we have more stitches, so we are getting more detail! 

    Pros: This is an easy way to make a tapestry bigger and more detailed.

    Cons: It was annoying having to try to remember how many stitches I was supposed to be doing each row. I had to double everything in my head, and my poor brain is foggy at the best of times. This would be way too annoying on a bigger chart.

    Round 11

    Linked Double Crochet (in rows)

    This was my first attempt using a taller stitch. I chose Linked Double Crochet because there are no gaps between the stitches. It’s closer to 2x single crochets stacked on top of each other.

    Pros: It was easy once I got into the swing of it.

    Cons: Not a fan of this one! The heart is weirdly elongated, and the edges look jagged.

    Round 11

    Half Double Crochet (in rows)

    Here we have one of my all-time favourite stitches, the Half Double Crochet.

    I have used hdc to make many, many garments, beanies, and blankets over the years. This is my go-to when I want something that works up quickly and has a nice drape.

    Pros: The drape is lovely on this little piece. The floats are also easily hidden on the back because the stitch isn’t too open.

    Cons: The edges aren’t too clean, and the heart is a little elongated.

    Round 11

    Overlay Mosaic

    “What is this magic?”, I hear you ask.

    My friend, this is the Mack Daddy of all tapestry techniques – Overlay Mosaic.

    Honestly, there is no contest!  The sharpness of the image is next level, and it’s far easier than you would imagine.

    Overlay Mosaic is worked on 1 side of the fabric, so the right side is always facing you. The images are created using only single crochets and double crochets. Yes – only 2 simple stitches! 

    Pros: Well, obviously, the result is fantastic – crispy and juicy and gorgeous! It’s also super-easy. If you use the Negative Stitch, it’s also reversible.

    Cons: You can’t use the mini chart at the top of this article. I had to convert it to an Overlay Mosaic chart. It’s also a new technique that you’ll need to add to your crochet repertoire.

    As I said above, I will be releasing this chart as a freebie for Valentine’s Day. 

    If you want to learn how this magic is achieved in the meantime, I highly recommend Sixel Designs. I learned via the tutorial on her website, and she has my favourite Overlay Mosaic patterns.

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